NYFW: Victoria Beckham's 'urban surf' line

Victoria Beckham's Spring/Summer 2016 collection was distinctly laid back, but the designer insisted that the vibe had little to do with the beach.

"It's an urban surf, not a California surf,'' Beckham said backstage. "It's a very different attitude. It's more about the city.''

That was evident in the  elegant, yet relaxed, frocks, that made their way down the runway inside Cipriani in lower Manhattan, They were light and easy enough to catch a cool breeze, but sufficiently chic so that the wearer wouldn't draw side glances while sipping cocktails at Jimmy at the James.

The show kicked off with white knit dresses, some without sleeves, others sporting a slight peplum, that were fresh, cool, and effortless. But soon enough it was clear that print was the true star of the show.

"It's a big print season for me,'' Beckham said. "I'm really excited to wear this print, this urban surf print . . . I think it's energetic and uplifting.''

Surf scenes, with black brush strokes that resembled calligraphy, popped up throughout the collection, dappling blouses, the edges of A-line skirts, and knee-length dresses.

Plaid was also prominent. A slash of it brightened the side of a sleeveless, ankle length shift. At other times, the plaid stood alone, providing the burgundy, white, and green palette of a calf-length frock with a jagged neckline.

Suede, so key to wardrobes in the winter and fall, was not to be forgotten come spring. It provided texture in the form of a narrow brown vest, and as the base of a deep purple top with an asymmetrical collar.

Beckham noted that Asia was her label's fastest-growing market, and the influence of that region was on display in a striking ensemble of a Nehru-like jacket, with a white, floral motif, that topped pajama-like, wide-legged pants.

It was a collection designed for more than size zero fashionistas. "All different shapes and sizes can wear the clothes,'' Beckham said. "There's a lot of options. It's a very liberating collection. I feel in a good place, and I think you can see that with the collection.''