A topless Adidas ad and our struggle to normalize the naked female body

Twenty-five pairs of faceless breasts in different shapes, sizes and skin colors were the focus of an Adidas campaign last month – and the internet had a lot to say about it.

From praise to confusion to disgust, reactions nearly drowned out the campaign's aim (to promote a new line of inclusive sports bras) thanks to the "shock factor" of the unfiltered, uncensored breasts. 

But are nipples really still shocking in 2022 even when shown in a nonsexual context? The reaction indicates the answer is yes, and experts say we still have a long way to go when it comes to normalizing naked bodies, particularly female-presenting bodies.

Societal views on bodies vary depending on culture, but in the United States, not much has changed in recent years, says Micol Hebron, feminist artist, activist and an associate professor at Chapman University.

"We have deeply internalized the assumption that we are approaching things from a male, cis-heterosexual gaze, and that from the perspective of that gaze, the female nipple is sexually stimulating," she says. "Adopting that perspective immediately discounts any other kind of gaze, and it discounts the autonomy and authority of the person whose body is being looked at."

Not long ago the cultural and even scientific understanding was that breasts are inherently sexual, explains Juliet Williams, professor of gender studies at the University of California, Los Angeles.

"Today, we recognize that one man's 'double D' is another person's milk delivery system and that the eroticization is a cultural construction," she says. "If you had a bared female chest on a magazine, it's going to be sold with a paper bag cover. If you have a male breast, it's fine. It's almost comical that breast and chest – they're very similar, a couple of letters off and it makes all the difference in the world."

So, are campaigns like this a step forward?

It's complicated. For some women, the straightforward images were a reason for celebration: representation of "normal" bodies.

"Despite all the negative comments I love this. My boobies have changed so much over the years and it’s lovely to see a brand catering for changes and seeing all boobies are normal and natural and beautiful," user @mspeach76 tweeted.

For others, the campaign missed the mark.

"This campaign was completely traditional and banal in the sense that corporations have been sexually exploiting women's bodies for profit for forever," Williams argued. "What was distinctive here is the very galling gesture of putting this ad forward, as if, despite doing that, it was actually a woke, progressive ad."

For those who felt seen or included when looking at the ad, Williams says "that's wonderful." 

"It's incredibly tragic that all women grow up believing that unless they have the breasts of a well-endowed 18-year-old white woman, they're defective. The fact that somebody can see in this ad that that's a lie, that's really great," she says. "What I would say though, is we should be careful that the gratification we may take from an ad like that is more a reflection on how low the bar is than on how good the ad (is)."

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Hebron agrees bodies that are perceived to be female are "one of the most valuable commodities of capitalism," but thinks understanding the campaign's context –  produced by the company's Germany headquarters (where nudity is less sexualized and socially stigmatized) and shot by photographer female Sophie Ebrard – helps show its positive intention. 

"I think hiding the identities of the authors of the ad... is contributing to the objectification of the oppressed," she says. "This is a shot from the perspective of female gaze, it was art directed by an entirely female, queer team – but to omit that information, we then fall back to the default male gaze."

Where do we go from here?

Williams admits there's no simple answer because sexism can take many forms – but firstly, the right voices should be centered.

"The priority of voice should be given to the people with the bodies that are marginalized, invisible and excluded," she says.

She also suggests keeping corporations' intentions in mind.

"What society really needs (is to welcome) the idea that bodies are not something to be ashamed of... It's really problematic to think that corporations are at the cutting edge in moving the ball forward. Their goal is to sell stuff. We don't have to condemn them, but I also think it's a bit much for them to claim to be these cultural leaders whose objective is equality and liberation."

Hebron hopes normalized bodies become much more common so that seeing one is "not an exceptional occasion (and) we don't only see female breasts in a sexualized context."

"I think talking about the nipple sounds on the surface, like kind of a frivolous or insignificant thing, but for me, it's a gateway to talk about much larger issues of bodily autonomy," she says. 

That's a vital step to effect change, she says.

"As someone who occupies a female-presenting body, I should be able to say, 'Today, I'm going topless because it's a nice day out and I want to feel the sun on my body.' And then the next day should be able to say, 'Today, I'm going topless because I'm feeling hot, and I want you to think I'm attractive,'" she says. "I should have that choice. I should be able to declare and present myself as sexual or not sexual by my choices."

Hebron, who has fought against the censorship of female nipples on social media, hopes high-profile conversation starters like the Adidas campaign can help push things forward.

And when she saw Adidas was planning to bring their bare-breasted campaign to billboards, she was thrilled.

"Maybe now you will see a female nipple on a billboard and we could start to change the conversation."

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