New lives, old fears as Burma lurches toward democracy

RANGOON, Burma — When the guards at Burma's most notorious prison complained "this is torture" and asked him to stop, former political prisoner Htein Lin smiled at the role reversal.

Years ago, guards at other jails had abused him. Now, the artist was enforcing his own "discipline" — no talking, stay focused — during a 10-day meditation session for 94 guards at Insein Prison.

Student rebel Aung Naing Oo used to dedicate himself to overthrowing Burma's military rulers. Now he works with them, at a government-affiliated peace center trying to end decades-long conflicts along the nation's borders.

Both men are examples of exiles drawn back home by Burma's promise of a transition from a military dictatorship to a democratic society.

While their new roles highlight progress toward that goal after a half-century of repression, many in this country fear that four years of changes have stalled and the ruling generals will block the path to full civilian government.

When President Obama visited Burma, officially known as Myanmar, in November, students greeted him with signs proclaiming "reform is fake."

"Without changing the constitution, it's not real reform," said artist Htein Lin, 48, who returned to Burma in 2013 after seven years in the United Kingdom. "We can't get a real transition and change, and we can't expect a democratic society."

"The nation's leaders are instituting a culture of dialogue because they know there is trouble ahead, everyone does," said Aung Naing Oo, who returned in 2012. He said a functioning democracy remains 15 years away, so people must be patient and lower expectations.

Burma's president, Thein Sein, "is not a miracle worker," he said. "Even if (opposition leader) Daw Aung San Suu Kyi comes into power next year, she won't be a miracle worker either."

Suu Kyi, a Nobel laureate and chairman of the National League for Democracy who spent years under house arrest, is barred by the constitution from running for president when elections are held next year.

At her party's headquarters in Rangoon, visitors buy calendars, mugs and T-shirts emblazoned with "The Lady", as many Burmese call her. Just three years ago, such items could bring police attention.

Despite her party's popularity, authorities have played down its petition with 5 million signatures asking parliament to change the constitution so she could run for president..

"We can't say we'll get an amendment before the election, but we won't surrender. We'll try again and again," said Nyan Win, a senior figure with the party. "The army chief of staff said 'we will follow the democratic changes,' so we are not afraid the democratic system will be reversed."

In the countryside where most Burmese still live, often in poverty, political doubts are quickly voiced.

"I don't believe the government will let the (National League for Democracy) take power," said U Ohn Kyaw, 67, a retired headmaster in Kungyangon township, a two-hour drive from Rangoon. "The changes are only superficial, and social living standards have not improved."

Still recalling childhood memories of a democratic Burma before the 1962 military coup, the retiree hopes to see democracy return in his lifetime.

In addition to the long road toward political change that the country faces, Burma's backward infrastructure is in need of major improvements.

Nyo Nyo Thein 40, a former heart surgeon, says power outages are so frequent in this commercial capital that during open-heart surgeries, one nurse readies a flashlight, while another has to operate an oxgen pump by hand. "Everything is breaking down," she said. "We have to change politically, otherwise no hope."

Her sister, Phyu Phyu Kyaw Thein, 33, is a top-selling pop star whose flamboyant costumes and performances draw headlines calling her Burma's Lady Gaga. "The only change is that people have a chance to see the breakdowns and talk about them freely," the singer said about the current government.

That's where the power of her music steps in. "I could transport them to another place from their suffering, at least for a few minutes," she said.

"It's like morphine" for the masses, joked Nyo Nyo Thein. She gave up her medical career this year after the health ministry, fearing a "brain drain" from the nation, stopped her from accompanying their father overseas for an operation.

She now works full time as her sister's manager and costume designer. Burma's military regime no longer bans her sister singer from appearing on television. While her next album, to be released ahead of the election, promises to be her "most provocative," she admits they self-censor the songs.

"You can always disappear at any time," Nyo Nyo Thein said about still fearing the government. "We always have that at the back of our mind."