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Rio Games begin with mixture of pride, apathy, protests


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RIO DE JANEIRO — This city’s complicated relationship with the Summer Games was on full display outside Maracana Stadium, where the opening ceremony was held Friday night.

While there was joy and national pride in some places, there were protests in others and apathy along Copacabana Beach, where thousands Samba danced on the sand in October 2009 when Rio’s bid was announced as the winner for these Olympics.

As Brazil’s economy and political structure has spiraled into turmoil, many locals have seen these Games not just as an inconvenience but a misuse of resources for a nation where poverty, crime, disease and infrastructure problems have not been adequately addressed.

It’s unclear how much national enthusiasm is left for the Olympics, but tensions were still running high Friday as a handful of protests broke out in various areas. Roughly two hours before the Olympics officially began, tear gas and a flash grenade were used by police to break up a protest around the Pena Square area in the northern part of town. Another smaller protest broke out near the stadium during the opening ceremony but quickly dispersed.

On the other hand, thousands watched the ceremony on giant screens at Olympic Boulevard, an open-air square in Rio’s port district.

The crowd sang along to Brazil's national anthem, cheered when the video showed an overhead shot of their party, applauded at every reference of the rain forests or Rio's beaches and broke into dance whenever a song had a good enough beat.

Outside, federal and local police stood guard, but there were no protests or disturbances.

Some of those celebrating, however, were not Brazilian.

Two years ago, Sabrina Gatzemeyer saw a link online to enter a drawing to become a volunteer for the 2016 Olympics. She signed up for herself and her husband, Brad, and didn't expect much.

But now, the couple from Medford, Ore., will celebrate their 19th wedding anniversary in Rio, both working as volunteers.

"It became a competition to see who would get the better sport," she said, revealing that her husband was assigned to work transportation at the aquatics center while she will be at the Olympic golf course.

"Uh, golf is OK," she said. "Maybe I will like it more when I get back."

A year ago, Callie DeCort came up with her ideal gift for her high school graduation: the Rio Olympics.

The 18-year-old from a suburb of Houston graduated last month and got accepted by Ohio State University, so on Friday she found herself in Rio with her father, brother and sister.

"It's a family graduation present," she said with a grin while waiting for the opening ceremony to start.

Her father, David, said it wasn't a hard sell. The family watches all the Olympic Games together so he quickly came around. They have tickets to see the women's gymnastics team and Michael Phelps in person.

But the highlight of the trip so far happened on Copacabana Beach when her brother, Cameron, kicked a soccer ball back and forth with a Brazilian stranger.

"I kept thinking, 'Man, I know this guy,'" said Cameron, 15.

They went back to their hotel, Googled "Brazil soccer player" and there he was: Ronaldinho, the two-time FIFA World Player of the Year.

"I was like, 'What?'"

It was harder to find those postcard moments on Copacabana Beach, where jubilant Cariocas often celebrate national pride. There were few people on the famed beach, and even the promenade was sparse. Traffic, which is usually bustling on the sidewalks and streets of inner Copacabana, felt more like a 2 a.m. on a Wednesday than the night of a big event.

But more people were listening to live music, dancing, walking on the beach and playing soccer on the beach. Hotel lobbies were quiet and mostly empty.

One had to venture a few blocks away from the water to find cafes and bars with people tuned in. On Rua Boilvar, locals and tourists watched the opening ceremony.

Some companies, such as Nike and Nissan, hosted viewing parties on rooftops overlooking Copacabana beach, illustrating how important prime real estate is.

But it definitely was not the party scene for which Rio is known.

Contributing: Nancy Armour, Alan Gomez, Taylor Barnes, Jeff Zillgitt

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