'Do you have to cover your face (in Saudi Arabia)?': What to know about solo female travel in the kingdom
As a female and second-generation expatriate who has lived in Saudi Arabia for nearly three decades, one question that I get asked often is: "Is Saudi Arabia safe for women?"
Or even: "Do you have to cover your face?"
Up until 2019, the kingdom only issued business or visitor visas for a religious pilgrimage to the holy sites of Mecca and Medina. As a plan to diversify its economy through tourism and entertainment (like neighboring Dubai), the country announced an electronic visa for visitors coming from 49 countries – including the United States.
As tourism to Saudi Arabia for either business or pleasure gains traction, we answer a few of your burning questions for solo female travel.
How can I travel through the country?
Saudi Arabia does not have a public transportation system. The easiest and safest way to get around the metropolitan cities of Riyadh and Jeddah is by using ride-hailing apps like Uber, Careem, Wsslini, and Bolt. Some apps have the option of choosing a female driver.
An affordable and efficient train line links Riyadh to the eastern province of the country, where smaller cities – like the UNESCO world heritage site of Al Qarah caves or the historical Qaisariah Souq of Al-Hofuf – may be of interest. On the west, a train line links Jeddah to religious sites. Separate seating areas for women in trains and transport lounges are the norm.
Sheila Russell, the British travel blogger behind Saudi Travel Notes advises on hiring a driver or opting for the "Vintage Land Rover" experience at AlUla, which will allow enough time to visit all the archeological sites.
Where can I stay?
The major metropolitan cities of Jeddah, Riyadh and Dammam have a slew of accommodation options – ranging from fully furnished rentals to high-end hotels. CouchSurfing is not a popular option and is highly discouraged. If traveling on a budget, Airbnb and OYO rooms are affordable and safer options.
In developing tourist locations like AlUla during December and the mountainous Rijal Almaa from July through September, accommodation options (particularly, budget) are limited, and prices hike up during tourist seasons.
What should I wear?
Alina Calianu, a Polish digital nomad who has visited Saudi Arabia several times over the past four years, does not wear an abaya (a full-body cloak that was until recently, mandated by the government).
"The abaya is still traditional attire, particularly, among Saudi women. But even they are starting to adopt modest clothing," she says.
As with any country, it is important to be respectful of the culture. While wearing the abaya or headscarf is not mandatory anymore, wear modest clothing that covers knees and shoulders. It's a good idea to keep a long, lightweight sweater or coverall handy as temperatures – contrary to popular belief that Saudi Arabia is a hot country – tend to drop drastically during the months of December through mid-February.
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What is etiquette?
In general, solo female travel through Saudi Arabia is safe and you will find locals welcoming. Calianu has always found locals keen to help.
"They go out of their way to help, even if they don't know English. There is willingness from everybody to assist," she says.
Arab hospitality is famed, and it is the norm for locals to offer gifts and address women in endearing terms like "dear" or "lovely."
The kingdom is just opening up to tourists and for locals in smaller towns and villages, it is still somewhat of a novelty. On the other hand, cultural reforms take time, so best to mirror the etiquette of your guide, host or locals.
Do not offer a handshake with the opposite gender, until they do so first. A common way of greeting men is placing a right hand on your chest and nodding with an "Ahlan" (hello).
Shaistha Khan is a travel and culture writer who has lived in Saudi Arabia for nearly three decades and traveled extensively through the Arabian Gulf. You can follow her on Twitter: @khan_shaistha.