Water runs white and rapid in the Mountain State

"If you fall in, swim like hell to the left. You want to stay as far away as possible from the undercurrent beneath that large rock over there."

So came the sanguine advice of our rafting guide as we prepared to paddle into a mosh pit of white water on West Virginia's Lower Gauley River. For a brief moment, I imagined myself locked in some sort of hellish underwater rinse cycle before our guide's cry of "Let's do it!" refocused my attention.

Seconds later, we were bouncing over the lip of a roaring wall of water into a hole big enough to swallow a small car. The rubbery raft lurched back out, tossing me and my raftmates around as if it was trying to lose its lunch. Over the clatter of our out-of-sync paddles, we heard a shout from our guide to keep paddling — hard forward.

With renewed motivation, we paddled on, extricating our raft from the rapid's hydraulic grip, some well-deserved high-fives waiting for us on the other end.

My eight-person crew was heading down a 12-mile stretch of the Lower Gauley, one of the country's best stretches of Class IV-V white water. The course is riddled with more than 35 rapids with names such as Pure Screaming Hell and Heaven Help You.

Fall is prime rafting season in West Virginia. The Summersville Dam, about 77 miles southeast of the capital city of Charleston, schedules releases for this time of year, turning 24 miles of the Gauley River into a paddler's dreamland.

Experienced rafters can tackle the river on their own, or choose from a number of licensed guides. Things peak beginning the Friday following Labor Day, when the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers' annual drawdown of Summersville Lake forces a steady sluice of riotous white water down the Gauley.

For uninitiated rafters like myself, the Lower Gauley is the best place to start, though it's by no means a languid float. A series of Class IV rapids (considered advanced) provides the biggest thrills, although the autumnal colors and impressive New River Gorge scenery also make this a must-do seasonal trip.

While both the New and Gauley rivers are striking for their wild and scenic characteristics, a trip out here is by no means an expedition into the hinterlands. Outfitters such as River Expeditions (800-463-9873; raftinginfo.com) offer creature comforts from luxury cabins to tent camping, not to mention a showerhouse with ample hot water after a long day on the river.

Lodges offer food, music and dancing into the wee hours. Fayetteville's Pies & Pints (219 W. Maple Ave.; 304-574-2200, piesandpints.net) is a good spot to grab an IPA and banter with the locals.

To close out the season, the area kicks up its heels during the Bridge Day Festival (officialbridgeday.com) at the New River Gorge Bridge. During the event, BASE jumpers up the adrenaline ante by legally freefalling into the chasm beneath the area's signature span, the world's second-longest single arch bridge. The festival takes place annually; this year's event is scheduled for Oct. 17.